Crawler harness question

[ebijack]

For me, I will state that over the years making short wire and coated twisted wire harnesses. When catching larger fish, they end up bending the wire/twisted cable during the heavy head shakes. I have not able to get the harness to ever run straight again and have to remake the harness. This is why after years of trying the wire/cable, I make my harnesses using #17 mono. I know others on here prefer the wire or cable. But for me it turns into a PIA and for me is much easier to re-make a mono harness than a wire or cable harness.

[Hoytman86]

For me, I will state that over the years making short wire and coated twisted wire harnesses. When catching larger fish, they end up bending the wire/twisted cable during the heavy head shakes. I have not able to get the harness to ever run straight again and have to remake the harness. This is why after years of trying the wire/cable, I make my harnesses using #17 mono. I know others on here prefer the wire or cable. But for me it turns into a PIA and for me is much easier to re-make a mono harness than a wire or cable harness.

Well quit catching those big fish! I tried mono and fluorocarbon and while I do agree they're easier to make, I get tired of having to change then after every damn fish. White bass trash them more than the eyes do and I catch a lot more of those little suckers than I do huge eyes. The cable is my preference, but I do agree it's a pain when it gets mangled.

[wakina]

For me, I will state that over the years making short wire and coated twisted wire harnesses. When catching larger fish, they end up bending the wire/twisted cable during the heavy head shakes. I have not able to get the harness to ever run straight again and have to remake the harness. This is why after years of trying the wire/cable, I make my harnesses using #17 mono. I know others on here prefer the wire or cable. But for me it turns into a PIA and for me is much easier to re-make a mono harness than a wire or cable harness.

I have tried all of the different combo's for leader material, mono, fluro and coated stranded wire. I gave up on the coated wire for the very reasons that you described and the mono/fluro for the reasons that Hoytman86 described.

I now make all of my spinners/harnesses on solid wire and add a short snell(just long enough to hold the 2 hooks and snap) that I tie using the coated wire. The snell can be changed out as quick as changing blades. The main body of the harness(Blade, beads and wire) are almost indestructible by any fish that you would encounter while fishing for walleyes on Erie. They will bend but they can be straightened by hand and still work and catch fish if the blade can spin freely. It also makes storing them easier without having all of those pool noodles and hooks exposed while waiting their turn to get wet. If I need/want to change blades I just change the whole harness which take even less time than changing the blade on a quick change clevis. I run them on a 60" leader, the same leader that I run spoons on, I can just unpin the harness and add a spoon if I so desire. I then place the harness in its storage compartment and done. No more wrapping leaders or pool noodles for me, no more bulky storage containers for them either.

[Hoytman86]

I'd be interested to see your harnesses, Wakina. I enjoy trying harnesses, just don't enjoy doing it when I MUST because all of mine are shot. I'm all for trying to improve my arsenal and making things quicker on the fly.

[wakina]

I'd be interested to see your harnesses, Wakina. I enjoy trying harnesses, just don't enjoy doing it when I MUST because all of mine are shot. I'm all for trying to improve my arsenal and making things quicker on the fly.

I will get some pics up as soon as I am back on my feet, recovering from pneumonia.

[wakina]

Laugh if you want but the walleyes like them!

[Jawbreaker]

Laugh if you want but the walleyes like them!

I like the concept of the harness being seperate from the spinner rig. Been anxiously waiting to see them.

Thank you sir.

[Daddyhags]

Onestout sent u pm

[igotgills2]

As always Wakina makes great points. I started fishing harnesses in the West basin seriously a few years back, and decided to begin with #5 Colorados and only use bead chain 1&2oz in line weights. I used an easily repeatable program in order to "learn" for myself where my baits were running and how they performed. There is a Ton of info available on the web to get you in the right depth range for what you are pulling , but a good VHF radio can be just as valuable. What happened was my confidence in those blades went thru the roof and my willingness to expand the inventory grew. I use the Colorados when pulling .9-1.5 is mph. They tend to blow out (for me anyways) any faster than that. Then I'll switch to hatchet or tandem willows which can be pulled much faster. I rarely go faster than 1.8-2.0, but do pull willows on dipseys deeper later in the summer out east at those speeds. I use Tommy Harris blades (just a personal preference), 6-7' 20# floro leaders, enough 6mm beads to be sure the blade clears the 1st hook( and beads between blades when running tandem) and a quality quick change clevis. You will lose blades with the quick clevis if you swap a bunch, but it is much easier when searching for the right blade color, just be aware. Everyone has a "Goto recipe" but purples,greens and pinks work well for me trolling, and golds/orange reds work well for me casting. Tip of the iceberg here, and I would suggest sharing a seat with guys on here to get a better feel when the harness bite picks up.