Quote Originally Posted by ebijack View Post
For me, I will state that over the years making short wire and coated twisted wire harnesses. When catching larger fish, they end up bending the wire/twisted cable during the heavy head shakes. I have not able to get the harness to ever run straight again and have to remake the harness. This is why after years of trying the wire/cable, I make my harnesses using #17 mono. I know others on here prefer the wire or cable. But for me it turns into a PIA and for me is much easier to re-make a mono harness than a wire or cable harness.
I have tried all of the different combo's for leader material, mono, fluro and coated stranded wire. I gave up on the coated wire for the very reasons that you described and the mono/fluro for the reasons that Hoytman86 described.

I now make all of my spinners/harnesses on solid wire and add a short snell(just long enough to hold the 2 hooks and snap) that I tie using the coated wire. The snell can be changed out as quick as changing blades. The main body of the harness(Blade, beads and wire) are almost indestructible by any fish that you would encounter while fishing for walleyes on Erie. They will bend but they can be straightened by hand and still work and catch fish if the blade can spin freely. It also makes storing them easier without having all of those pool noodles and hooks exposed while waiting their turn to get wet. If I need/want to change blades I just change the whole harness which take even less time than changing the blade on a quick change clevis. I run them on a 60" leader, the same leader that I run spoons on, I can just unpin the harness and add a spoon if I so desire. I then place the harness in its storage compartment and done. No more wrapping leaders or pool noodles for me, no more bulky storage containers for them either.