Here's the program for big walleye and lots of them!

[BossHogg]

I have been using those med. size with keeper plasic clevises from Jannscraft, but have been thinking about trying those Dutch fork no loss style or s.s. quick clevises for the hatchets. Is that what you wakina?

[wakina]

I have been using those med. size with keeper plasic clevises from Jannscraft, but have been thinking about trying those Dutch fork no loss style or s.s. quick clevises for the hatchets. Is that what you wakina?

I lost to many blades on just about all of those quick change clevis so I switched to the folded and stirrup type. They both wore the Snell and I lost a few from broken shells(my fault) so I now make them on hard wire and use the stirrup clevis. Have not lost a blade since and I can change the entire harness assembly quicker than most can change just the blade. He wire former has paid for itself in blade cost alone. I can whip out about 15 an hour but I still have to tie the shells afterward to complete the harness. I only attach the shells as need while on the water. I do have several complete ones ready so I can keep lines fishing while I change out the Snell. I will try to get a picture up as soon as possible so you can see what I am doing.

[DIRTY COPPER]

I guess Iwas'nt clear with my Q. I was asking about the leader on back of the spoon How long of line and how far between the hooks. Ido'nt like the treble. I'll be using two single #2 hooks ( red ), with 20# floro. I was also asking about the beads,I,ve not seen them before,is it for looks or are they needed. Like the sound of your harnessI tie a pretty mean harness.

[wakina]

I would tie a few with the hooks spaced just like you would for a regular harness and a few with the last hook about 1/2 that distance try them and see which you prefer. But like stated earlier the closer you can keep that first hook to the spoon the better. So as for length that would be depends as you would not want it to long but it has to be long enough so you can attach the snell to the spoons split ring and then cut off that tag end. As you can see ebijack has attached his with a crimp on connector directly to the split ring. If you use his picture as a reference you cannot go wrong. Attaching the snell this way keeps that first hook close to spoon, I find it to hard to tie it close to the split ring so I also use a crimp. So far none have failed and you can carry extra snells, crimps and crimping tool and change them on the water while fishing without to much difficulty.

[ebijack]

Wakina is right, as far as the beads, the long beads are cause I'm lazy. Much easier to put on 3 total beads. I find the beads are necessary, without them I don't have much luck at all. A friend who passed away put me on the path to getting these to work, I spent a lot of years with the beads in front of the spoon, behind the spoon, no beads, added spinners etc and this is what made things happen big time. They are part of the attraction but the fish still want the spoon and get that front hook a vast majority of the time. I use wired for a bit but found it got bent and would throw off the action to where they did not work as good. So I went back to mono.
The first time I took a friend out and used these, he said "good luck with that". The first 11 of 12 fish came on the spoon harness. The next 10 or more trips out was mostly the same results. He now strictly runs these. We have converted a lot of guys out there. I don't say they are for everyone. Make a couple and try em out. If you like em great, if not, don't use em. Doesn't matter to me. I do know most times at the fish cleaning station everyone wanted to know where and how we got our fish, and so quick. Most thought we were messin with them and didn't believe us. Since I started using these, both my wife and I only use regular harnesses on bouncers down at the bottom as that is the only place we find where harnesses catch more walleye. Something to do with the action that draws em in where they can see it from a distance unlike the bottom.

[wakina]

I wanted to post some recent pics of my harnesses on wire but Will have to look for my tackle boxes I have them stored somewhere but that somewhere is the $64,000 question. LOL! I will find them! Any how here is a link to some of the first harnesses on wire that I made and posted the pics on this site in November of 2012! 2 of them are with the snells attached and one is bare. You can laugh at my beads if you want to but they catch fish really well.

http://community.walleye.com/attachm...9&d=1352672559

[DIRTY COPPER]

WHAT'S UP!- you guys are great. I've heard and read about the wornburner and needed to learn more. why I asked about the beads was, something was said about the weight changing the action. I would think it would be better. I will be using them. Great combo. I also been asked Q and get looked at funny, if you don't like the answer don't ask the Q, I 'am trying to help. One more thing, I have seen a small snap swivel with out the snap ring. Will this make a difference. I know the spoon spins but worm shouldn't just like a harness? I'am going to make some. Thanks for the help,maybe I can help someone

[wakina]

Here is a pic of one of the original spoon harnesses that I tied in 2010. You will notice that I have used a snap swivel to attach the snell to the spoon! This spoon harness was not one of my great successes it only worked with the heavier Wolverine Jr. streak spoons that is pictured and was a total failure with the lighter wt. Michigan stinger Scorpion spoons. I attribute that to the snap swivel and the extra wt. it placed directly on the back of the spoon. The beads on the other hand are further away from the spoon allowing the spoon to react in a more normal way! Just my thoughts on this.

http://community.walleye.com/attachm...1&d=1300990417