Electronics mount question

**weekendwarrior** · 03-07-2017, 12:27 PM

Hello all we are getting ready to take ownership of a ranger 621 FS. The boat came with a HDS 12 at console and a HDS 9 at the bow. We would like to be able to move the bow unit to the rear for days we are trolling. Does anyone have any advice on a good mount that we can quickly change from the bow to the stern. It seems like people are unhappy with ram mounts. Thanks for any replies.

**ebijack** · 03-07-2017, 12:41 PM

I prefer an original gimbal type mount. (i've made my own, but you can buy replacements). They don't typically come loose. You will need another set of power wires and nema cables if you are linking the units. And another transducer. Which you can place on the drivers side of the transom since you are only using it for trolling. Unless you switch the console unit to 83mhz while both are running, the 2 units would cross talk.
I've had units pop out of Johnny ray mounts. Rams can come loose.
Easier to just turn around and look at your 12" screen.

**G_Spot** · 03-07-2017, 03:46 PM

Can't go wrong with the Cisco mount. Rock solid.

**Snowking** · 03-07-2017, 04:44 PM

I do that with my bow mount. I have ciscos track system so it is easy to move. I have the balls out mount with a short arm and 12 inch arm. I use the short arm in back and the 12 inch arm when bow mounted. I have ciscos mount for my hds 12 on dash. I installed 12 volt cigarette plugs on the bow and back. You can just use the same power cord that way. You would not need another transducer. You can use a extra network cable from the transom area to the dash hds 12. That way you can use the transducer that is hooked up to the hds 12.

**weekendwarrior** · 03-07-2017, 06:06 PM

Thanks for the advice the Cisco people were very helpful and their product looks nice. It is a new boat so it will be pre rigged to work off dash unit when in the back then on its own in the front

**ebijack** · 03-08-2017, 05:48 AM

Just note. If you have someone, not you wire up all your electronics and they are hooked thru the NEMA. If the main unit goes out, you are out there on the water without a depth finder or possible GPS. I've been in 2 boats where that happened. Main electronics went out. Fog rolled in. At least the compass worked and we knew how to use it. But when you are close to shore. You better know how to get back in without running ground. Dangerous situations. Don't want to be there again.
My personal reason for wiring every unit separately myself. I had 4 units, 2 console, one at the bow and one at the transom (used to fish tourney's). I've had 2 units fail at different times. They were 10 yr old units. I still had working units due to be wired separately.
Most do not use their compass (never learned) and would not have an idea how to get back without electronics.
If you wired it, you would have an idea where to look for the problem and might be able to repair out on the water.

**Warrior21** · 03-08-2017, 11:59 AM

Stabil mounts > Cisco..... run Cisco on my hds12. Not happy with it.

**Snowking** · 03-08-2017, 05:30 PM

I would run a network cords up to the bow also. The hds 12 have two inputs for nema 2000 and Lowrance network. that way you can have the bow or transom networked. With both of the units having built in gps you would always have mapping. If the dash unit died you could just prop the bow unit on the dash. Plug your transducer in to get home.

**dgf2250** · 03-09-2017, 05:41 PM

If your HDS units are Gen3, then maybe you don't need to move the head unit at all. Gen3 transmits a wireless signal where you can take an IPad and repeat (and control) the display using a free app. Maybe all you need to do is mount an IPad back there

**dgf2250** · 03-16-2017, 11:08 PM

My own post proposing mounting an iPad at the stern inspired me to do this for my boat. I use Scotty rod holders, so it made sense for me to make an adapter that would let me mount an Ipad in a Scotty base. I had a Scotty post that I scavenged from one of their triple rod holders that I no longer use, but they make an electronics mount that would serve the same purpose. I mounted a 1/4 inch aluminum plate to the Scotty post, then to the aluminum plate, I mounted a Ram Mount and Ram Tab-Tite iPad holder. I also got a Griffin Survivor case for the Ipad. The Survivor case boasts that it can withstand sandstorms and provides rain protection up to 7 inches per hour. The iPad should be safe in this case. Since this will be mounted almost directly above the transducer, I'm hoping I can use it to jig this spring and see the jig like ice fishing. The case was $65 at Walmart, the Ram Mount was $35 at Cabelas and I mail ordered the tab-tite iPad adapter for $44, so I have around $150 in the setup. Significantly less than another HDS unit.

Here is the finished mount in my basement with the iPad connected to the HDS9 Gen3 using their free app which I downloaded from the app store. The iPad screen is roughly the same size as the HDS=9 and you can control the sonar unit using the iPad. It's touch screen.
Electronics mount question-img_1658-jpg

Here it is when it's not mounted in the rod holder base and without the iPad
Electronics mount question-img_1666-jpg

Think of how useful it will be to have an iPad mounted on the boat. Here are the apps I'll run in addition to the depth finder. I think I'm going to like this setup:
Electronics mount question-img_1661-jpg