Pictures of different worm harnesses

[Drifter]

I thought maybe some of you might be interested in the following material. The Hatchet blade falls at the same spot on the chart as the Tomahawk blade. I have never had a problem with the Hatchet Blades at speeds up to 2.2 SOG. On the hard wire they do not twist the leader like the would if the harness was 60" long and actually made on the leader and all one pc.

http://www.lineonfishing.com/index.p...50-blade-types

What size / gauge wire do you use. Galvanized, Stainless, uncoated? Do you just get it a Lowes or the Hardware store?

Thanks for all of your help all of the time.

[wakina]

What size / gauge wire do you use. Galvanized, Stainless, uncoated? Do you just get it a Lowes or the Hardware store?

Thanks for all of your help all of the time.

These are the ones that I use. http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/wire-lu...ts/320608.aspx I use the 4" .030 they are stainless steel. I have posted the link to Janns Netcraft only because it shows the picture for reference. I am not advocating that you should buy from them, that type of wire form is available from several different vendors and you should make your own choice as to which vendor to buy from. With that being said I do buy and use their wire forms. Any thing bigger than .035 wire and they become almost to hard/stiff to get a nice clean eye on the final twist.

I don't like the quick change clevis, http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/quick-c...es/313109.aspx to many lost blades, so I use the stirrup clevis in size 3 or 4, http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/wire-clevises/320907.aspx , and in a pinch use the size 4 folded clevis, http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/folded-...es/320914.aspx . It is better to have the clevis one size to big than one size to small because the blade needs room to move away from the shaft to work properly and to not twist leaders if it stops or spins intermittently, it must spin freely all the time to avoid tackle problems.

I make up several with the blade color/pattern that I want then switch out the harness instead of using the quick change clevis and just switching blades. Changing the bead, blade assembly with the short harnesses is actually quicker than changing just the blade and since they store easy and in less space they take up less room than 20 standard harnesses do wrapped on pool noodles.

On Edit: I forgot to mention that one of the most important components, and they go on the leaders, are the swivels and swivel snaps/snap swivels. Use a high quality stainless ball bearing swivel and snap swivel on your leaders and you will avoid most if not all twisted leaders. The higher the quality the better.

[ebijack]

Hot blade color? You are pretty lucky if one blade is "hot" for 2 weeks, usually less than that. Color trends would be more in line. Purple, pink, chartreuse etc early season with copper backs. As summer warm waters, silver backs with watermelon colors on the face, and trout colors and green shades. This is just my findings over time. But, as weather storms/wind change the lake water color and move the fish regularly. You can almost count on the "hot" color of yesterday to be different. This is just the one box I allow myself to carry on the boat.


As far as using treble hooks as the rear hook of a harness, for me those just make it harder to take off the bait stealers and get tangled in the net. A few times/days over the years, it helped. But when/if there is a day I think I need them, I just add a sliding loop stinger hook on the back.


I prefer to use drop shot hooks #1 and #2. I find them to be stronger, hook up the fish better, have a larger bend in the hook, do not get dull as fast as the snell hooks sold and the eyelets are slightly larger making it easier to rig. As you can see from my assortment in the first pic, most of those hooks are the ones I don't like to use any more. I have to hunt for the drop shot hooks. If you look, you can see the difference in these spoon harnesses I make. The colored hooks are typical high end snell hooks, the black ones are the drop shot hooks. This is my findings.


On a side note: The Domak bead pkgs in the top photo. I won't be purchasing those any more. Both pkgs of beads, there is flashing left on most of the beads at one of the hole ends making them useless unless you want to clean each one up. I don't know if that is how all of there beads are, but both pkgs I purchased have the same problem.