Quote Originally Posted by jeepdude64 View Post
I tried braid but it is too flimsy and would wrap often around the leader which just wastes time unwrapping it. The other thing with braid is it is hard to close that loop at the end tight enough to get it to stay in so the stiffness of the mono and thicker works better for me. I also agree a clicker release is great.

I found running the numbers close to each other, especially in deeper water made it easier for me to set the outside dipsy. For instance, I used to run 0-3-5 settings and the 5 would often get tangled when letting it out. I let it out from the opposite corner using the clicker. I started running them 0-1-2 and the resetting of the 2 dispy goes back better and does not tangle an inside one. I know most likely current is the culprit but the lower numbers just hold higher while running out on the clicker. I am one to try different things and ways to get the same result I just think it helps me identify a problem and solve it when out of the water.
my problem with not using braid was getting them to trip when bringing them in. The mono has so much stretch I could jerk half of the day before the diver would trip. but with a non-stretch braid it usually only took one good jerk. it's usually a little rough on the central basin of Erie so the front release had to be set a little tight so we wouldn't get a bunch of false releases when the boat surged.

as far as settings on the diver I always use 1.5, 3.0, 4.5, or 5.0 and we rarely have lines tangle on us. but we make sure we get them started straight, let them out starting on the opposite side, and let them out slowly. we let the outside diver out then the middle diver goes out 20' less and then the back diver is 20' less than our middle diver. when the middle diver is out 130' and were letting the outside diver out we let it out 140' then take the rod over and place it in the holder and stop letting line out at 150'. this helps prevent lines from tangling with other lines.