There are many good boards and techniques. Here are a few little things we do to address some of the problems mentioned.

First we use the Church boards, not because they are better but because we can rig them without a back release. Our different crews have varied experiences and the last thing I want to do is chase down a board because someone did not get the line behind the pin (happens allot). With the church all they have to do is run the line through the slot, kind off idiot proof.

We use a snap weight clip at 50 with out weights to stop board - attach weight when we need to go deep. The worst thing that can happen is the board slide to bait if someone messes up the snap weight clip.

For a release we use an OR39 or the red Amish outfitter or39 knock off. Both work good, especially with braid. But we rig them a little different. We use a ring to a large swivel then another ring to release. This prevents the looped line from occasionally getting tangled around release some one mentioned and helps the board track smoother. With this set up a short pop or snap of the line releases board and it slides down to snap weight clip at 50 ft. Note: we do not loop the line but wrap it around the or 39 pin (more wraps for braid, fewer for mono). As originally asked; this is a smooth way tp release the board and it slides smoothly behind the boat.

Also mentioned was a lost church board hard to see, Unfortunately Church doesn't finish the back side of the board like Offshore so there is white foam showing. If a line breaks and a board is lost, it will usually lay over with the white side up, not orange. This can be hard to see, especially if there are any white caps. Our solution is we give each back side of the board a quick spray of orange florescent paint.

Lastly we put red flags on port side boards and green flags on starboard boards. They match the night lights. One other little thing to help keep things simple and not get messed up.

Good luck