Bert's Custom Tackle

[ebijack]

Did the screws fracture at the base of the tapered head? Typically that would be from loosing the clamp load ( not being tight, also a shear condition). Just so you know, S.S. is softer than most grade bolts and subject to fracturing. Typically S.S. is never hardened, not sure they even can. I've never been able to harden stainless. I know they would rust but if you replaced them with grade 8 screws, they would most likely never facture again. Paint the head of the screws after installing, put regular oil on the threads before installing will help stop that corrosion.
Thanks for letting guys know to check theirs!

[Jawbreaker]

Did the screws fracture at the base of the tapered head? Typically that would be from loosing the clamp load ( not being tight, also a shear condition). Just so you know, S.S. is softer than most grade bolts and subject to fracturing. Typically S.S. is never hardened, not sure they even can. I've never been able to harden stainless. I know they would rust but if you replaced them with grade 8 screws, they would most likely never facture again. Paint the head of the screws after installing, put regular oil on the threads before installing will help stop that corrosion.
Thanks for letting guys know to check theirs!

If you use grade 8 bolts and thread them into aluminum, I think you'll need to use anti-seize on them or they'll corrode with the aluminum and never come out. I'm not sure regular oil would keep that from happening.

[ebijack]

If you use grade 8 bolts and thread them into aluminum, I think you'll need to use anti-seize on them or they'll corrode with the aluminum and never come out. I'm not sure regular oil would keep that from happening.

If you could get your hands on the illegal anti-seize with the ground glass in it, then yes. Other than that, I've never experienced anti-seize stopping metal from rusting. No where hear as good as oil as the oil will actually absorb a very tiny amount into the metal. The aluminum doesn't like touching any ferrous metal. And reacts to it. But that is my experience.

[Jawbreaker]

If you could get your hands on the illegal anti-seize with the ground glass in it, then yes. Other than that, I've never experienced anti-seize stopping metal from rusting. No where hear as good as oil as the oil will actually absorb a very tiny amount into the metal. The aluminum doesn't like touching any ferrous metal. And reacts to it. But that is my experience.

You may be right, about it not stopping rust, but I would think the oil would be too thin to stay on the threads between the two metals when tightened, which would allow them to react and corrode. The anti seize I've always used anytime I have aluminum against steel, such as spark plugs in aluminum heads and lug nuts on aluminum rims, is almost impossible to wipe off without some kind of solvent. I'm no expert and this is just my uneducated opinion. So take it for what it's worth.

[ebijack]

Do not use anti-seize on spark plugs, when they get hot, some of the lubricants can and do run down onto the electrodes and will foul out plugs to were they will not fire any more. I know this from my 12 + yrs doing engine development on dyno's.
I think if you try engine oil ( used works also) on your wheel studs, you will find those will not rust and strip threads like what can happen with the anti-seize when high temps are reached. I've been using oil for 30 + yrs. Hasn't failed me yet. Where I have had problems with anti-seize. Again, that is my experience.

[fishreed]

Did the screws fracture at the base of the tapered head? Typically that would be from loosing the clamp load ( not being tight, also a shear condition). Just so you know, S.S. is softer than most grade bolts and subject to fracturing. Typically S.S. is never hardened, not sure they even can. I've never been able to harden stainless. I know they would rust but if you replaced them with grade 8 screws, they would most likely never facture again. Paint the head of the screws after installing, put regular oil on the threads before installing will help stop that corrosion.
Thanks for letting guys know to check theirs!

After spending 20 years before I retired in the metallurgical test and manufacturing industry as a 8 State Field Engineer and Adjunct Professor who has taught Metallurgical Test Methods at 7 major Universities in the Midwest with a well known major employer who manufactures computer Rockwell and Tensile testing equipment, let me educate you guys on stainless steel bolt and nut fatigue. Stainless steel is an alloy of Nickel and Chrome. Chrome is used for surface brightness such as kitchen sinks and nickel is used for strength. Most stainless steel bolts and nuts approach Rockwell C 55-58 and that my fishing friends makes them VERY susceptible to breaking because they HARD NOT Soft. One has to be very careful from over torquing when using Nylock nuts to prevent Gauling /cold welding stainless nuts on stainless bolts because they will gall themselves together as you will snap them due to over torquing off if you try to remove them. I suggest a minimum 1/4-20 stainless bolts and nylock nuts with a SUPER light film of Super Lube synthetic grease with PTFE to be used on all base mounted rods holders and track systems using these nylock stainless nuts and bolts with backer stainless washers on rail Sisco and Traxtech as it will be more than sufficient unless you are pull out big tree stumps. Stainless Steel Nuts and bolts are HARD NOT SOFT metallurgically speaking as this makes them very suspectable to torque breaking and cold welding/galling to the screw. Oil will not do the job as compared to Super Lube Synthetic grease with PTFE/Teflon additives as I have used this synthetic grease for well over 15 years in the repairing, upgrading, and maintenance for 50 years of every fishing reel known to mankind. Class Dismissed.

[sherman51]

lock nuts with a backing plate or even large fender washers will work just fine. the Teflon nuts are just nuts with Teflon on the end. I mounted my tracks on my boat with just ss screws. I wanted to make sure they would hold so I put 2-rod holders out 90 degrees and grabbed on. I lifted my 250# weight and jerked as hard as I could and it held just great. I used riggers in the tracks once but tied them to the boat just in case. i removed the tracks the other day to put them on another boat. the screws were still as tight as they were when I installed them a few yrs ago. and I wouldn't use riggers on them often without using bolts with Teflon nuts with some type of backing plate. i use my rod holders for running 3 lite bite slide divers per side.