Here's the program for big walleye and lots of them!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DIRTY COPPER

WHAT'S UP! Thanks guys:D I have seen the ones skipper 9 show, but the ones ebijack showed were the ones Ihad Q's about. Most had the treble hooks. I was also looking to see if you used wire mono. Over the years I have learned how to tie a mean wormharness:rolleyes: Thanks again for the pic. Good fishing to all

---

If the worm burner/worm harness is to heavy in the rear the spoon will not react and flutter the way they should. They just plow along in the water and flutter every now and then, that has been my experience anyhow. I feel mono, braid(Fireline Crystal) or floro works the best on them if they are home made, the wire seems to be to stiff and I feel it limits the spoons movements. I also use 2 number 2 hooks instead of the treble set up. The closer to the spoon that first hook is the better and it will increase your hookup rate.

Besides what Wakina states, the ones I run actually work best at slower speeds from .8 to 1.5 when using crawlers. And most fish come on the front hook.

I started tying up spoon harnesses last year after a few pointers from ebijack. did pretty well on them. As a rule when it got to worm season I would try to run 2-3 out of my spread with them and the balance in regular harnesses and scorpion spoons. I had no problem catching fish on them from 1.8-2.5 mph. I used 17# vicious last year, but broke off a couple hooks in the net, so I switched up to 20# seagar this year.

WHAT'S UP!- Just the stuff I whated to hear.I use 20 # vanish floro. Q about the beads? Do this add weight? One thing is clear' whoever thought this up is smart I love using spoons and harness have always worked good. The two should be even better;) one more Q how long a leader, and how far apart are the hooks 2" or 2.5"? Good fishing to all !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DIRTY COPPER

WHAT'S UP!- Just the stuff I whated to hear.I use 20 # vanish floro. Q about the beads? Do this add weight? One thing is clear' whoever thought this up is smart I love using spoons and harness have always worked good. The two should be even better;) one more Q how long a leader, and how far apart are the hooks 2" or 2.5"? Good fishing to all !

---

I tie my hooks closer together on the spoon harness but others tie them further apart like regular harness. I use a 60" leader and change them the same as I would just a spoon. My harnesses are different than what you usually see also and they interchange without having to remove my leader. My harnesses are built on hard wire with a short Snell like the spoon harness and are virtually indestuctable by walleyes and sheep head. I don't have to worry about the clevis weakening my Snell leader either. I no longer have all those 60 inch harnesses to contend with but can keep 60 to 80 harnesses in a couple of plano flip sider storage boxes. I keep a dozen or so leaders tied ahead and stored on a leader keeper tube. I also run all three types of lures(spoons, spoon harness and worm harnesses) in the same spread without issues and catch my fair share of fish. I pull all three behind tru-trip 40 or jet 40 divers but I preferred the tru-trips. I will add that I very seldom use Colorado blades anymore but rely mostly on hatchet blades. They work well and you can pull them at spoon speeds if you use a over sized clevis and a quality ball bearing swivel on your leader. I prefer stainless swivels to the regular ones only because the don't corrode like the others do.

I have been using those med. size with keeper plasic clevises from Jannscraft, but have been thinking about trying those Dutch fork no loss style or s.s. quick clevises for the hatchets. Is that what you wakina?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BossHogg

I have been using those med. size with keeper plasic clevises from Jannscraft, but have been thinking about trying those Dutch fork no loss style or s.s. quick clevises for the hatchets. Is that what you wakina?

---

I lost to many blades on just about all of those quick change clevis so I switched to the folded and stirrup type. They both wore the Snell and I lost a few from broken shells(my fault) so I now make them on hard wire and use the stirrup clevis. Have not lost a blade since and I can change the entire harness assembly quicker than most can change just the blade. He wire former has paid for itself in blade cost alone. I can whip out about 15 an hour but I still have to tie the shells afterward to complete the harness. I only attach the shells as need while on the water. I do have several complete ones ready so I can keep lines fishing while I change out the Snell. I will try to get a picture up as soon as possible so you can see what I am doing.

I guess Iwas'nt clear with my Q. I was asking about the leader on back of the spoon How long of line and how far between the hooks. Ido'nt like the treble. I'll be using two single #2 hooks ( red ), with 20# floro. I was also asking about the beads,I,ve not seen them before,is it for looks or are they needed. Like the sound of your harness:cool:I tie a pretty mean harness.

I would tie a few with the hooks spaced just like you would for a regular harness and a few with the last hook about 1/2 that distance try them and see which you prefer. But like stated earlier the closer you can keep that first hook to the spoon the better. So as for length that would be depends as you would not want it to long but it has to be long enough so you can attach the snell to the spoons split ring and then cut off that tag end. As you can see ebijack has attached his with a crimp on connector directly to the split ring. If you use his picture as a reference you cannot go wrong. Attaching the snell this way keeps that first hook close to spoon, I find it to hard to tie it close to the split ring so I also use a crimp. So far none have failed and you can carry extra snells, crimps and crimping tool and change them on the water while fishing without to much difficulty.

Wakina is right, as far as the beads, the long beads are cause I'm lazy. Much easier to put on 3 total beads. I find the beads are necessary, without them I don't have much luck at all. A friend who passed away put me on the path to getting these to work, I spent a lot of years with the beads in front of the spoon, behind the spoon, no beads, added spinners etc and this is what made things happen big time. They are part of the attraction but the fish still want the spoon and get that front hook a vast majority of the time. I use wired for a bit but found it got bent and would throw off the action to where they did not work as good. So I went back to mono.
The first time I took a friend out and used these, he said "good luck with that". The first 11 of 12 fish came on the spoon harness. The next 10 or more trips out was mostly the same results. He now strictly runs these. We have converted a lot of guys out there. I don't say they are for everyone. Make a couple and try em out. If you like em great, if not, don't use em. Doesn't matter to me. I do know most times at the fish cleaning station everyone wanted to know where and how we got our fish, and so quick. Most thought we were messin with them and didn't believe us. Since I started using these, both my wife and I only use regular harnesses on bouncers down at the bottom as that is the only place we find where harnesses catch more walleye. Something to do with the action that draws em in where they can see it from a distance unlike the bottom.