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Thread: Good ramps for rookie
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03-07-2013, 11:41 AM #11
One final thing that needs to be done or at least checked and that is put the drain plug in the boat or make sure it is already installed!!!!! It would shock you to know just how many people forget this one simple step!! Reason is that most people take it out to drain the water out and to keep it from accumulating water in case it rains while still on the trailer in storage or while transporting to the point of launch.
Wakina
23 foot Pro Line
HDS 5X Sonar
HDS 5M GPS
Navonics chip, model #DMSD/649P+
Platinum Plus Lake Erie and Lake St Clair Marine.
Raymarine Dragonfly7 Sonar-Downvision-GPS combo with chirp technology.
Navonics Hotmaps Premium East chip
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03-07-2013, 11:44 AM #12Wakina
23 foot Pro Line
HDS 5X Sonar
HDS 5M GPS
Navonics chip, model #DMSD/649P+
Platinum Plus Lake Erie and Lake St Clair Marine.
Raymarine Dragonfly7 Sonar-Downvision-GPS combo with chirp technology.
Navonics Hotmaps Premium East chip
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03-07-2013, 12:39 PM #13
Ramps
I prefer Fenwick which is a nice gradual ramp. My buddy did ding his prop on something last fall using east dock ramp.
Let me know if you need help and if I am at the condo I will meet you at the dock and lend a hand.
lake condo for rent
http://www.vacationrentals411.com/vacation/23785.html
John
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03-07-2013, 01:02 PM #14
I use Catawba and Mazurik frequently. I'm 23 now. I only started launching and loading maybe 5 years ago. . Before that, my dad did everything, and the only thing I did was hold the boat at the dock while he parked the truck and trailer and came hurrying back.
1. Have a second person with you. Makes it much easier.
2. Have a bow line and stern line on.
3. Do a safety check! This includes having the drain plug in. Be ware, often times the Ohio Watercraft Patrol or even the Coast Gaurd will be present at public ramps and ask if you'd like to do a safety check. I suggest you do it, if they have the stickers. That way, if/when you pass inspection you get a sticker on your boat for the year and they will leave you alone the rest of the year.
4. As a beginner, you want to go on the upwind side of the ramp, so that it'll hold the boat to the dock.
5. As you or whoever backs it in, have the other person walk alongside with the bowline in hand.
6. Back up slowly, and as others said, pretty close to the dock.
7. When the boat looks like its starting to float, firmly press the brakes so that the sudden stop of the truck and trailer is enough that the momentum of the boat slides it right off the trailer. Have the person with the bow line tie the boat up while you go park your rig. It helps if the person who's walking with the boat while you're driving (or vice versa) is good with the boat so that they can move out of the way while you park, so that others can use the ramp.
8. Hurry back. Pretty obvious but pick up the person who was parking the truck and trailer, without interfering with anyone who's launching or loading.
9. Go limit out
Oh, and one thing I forgot.. doesn't hurt to start the boat up and make sure its running before you drive away in the truck and trailer. Otherwise you're dead in the water, taking up a ramp space, while the truck and trailer has to come back to load back up.
Loading up
1. When there is a chance to drop someone off at the dock to grab the trailer, do so.
2. Back it in, same way, close to the dock. Don't back in too far.
3. Walk out in the water, or on the trailer, and pull the boat up on the trailer. Winch it to get it the rest of the way. DO NOT power load the boat onto the trailer - pretty sure that they still cover this in the boater's ed course.
4. Pull out slowly!
5. Pull the drain plug, secure the boat, and head home!
It isn't rocket science. More than anything, have patience. Patience with other boats who are either less physically able, or just don't have a damn clue what they're doing.
I say not to power load the boat onto the trailer, because at one public access ramp a couple years ago, there must have been a hole at the end of the ramp, and the trailer tires went off the end. It was like being hooked to a wall, the truck and trailer didn't want to come up the ramp. With too much effort, it came unstuck, but not before it slid the axle 6-8" back the boat trailer frame!!!
I drive the truck and trailer, my dad has the boat. I back it in while he walks alongside. I pump the brakes and the boat slides off, and he's in it with it running almost immediately. I park, and he comes and picks me up from the dock and we're off. After 5 years working together to do it, we've got it down and look like pros. The only time I get nervous is when there are lots of people watching me maneuver the trailer, which is silly because I've never had an issue.
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03-07-2013, 02:38 PM #1521ft Red Mirrocraft Open Bow w/ gray Evinrude 120 OB. Nicknamed "Sunny Daze".
Channel 79, hit me up. Can be caught perch'n or drift'n around the islands when I make it out.
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03-07-2013, 03:38 PM #16
Crib
Just wondering if that spot southwest of Crib is a hazard to navigation why doesn't the Coast Guard mark it?
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03-07-2013, 04:01 PM #17
Ramps
I'd say all good advice on this topic. My 2 cents is to take some time learn how to backup a trailer into the water.. I live by Cullen park and go down to see ppl "try" to back up and their all over the place back and forth 10 times just before they hit the dock with their boat trailer.. Just like anything you have to practice. I loaded my boat in 2 mins last fall. Guy behind me asked how'd you do that so quick??? Done it alot..When you boat is back on the trailer move off to the side to get it ready for transport.. Ppl get real mad when you sit their for 20 mins while they wait to go fishing! Trick.. keep 1 hand on the BOTTOM of the wheel, whatever way you want your trailer to go turn the wheel that way.. Good luck..
Lowe Life
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03-07-2013, 04:17 PM #18
crib
That's a great question! There is a buoy out there by crib but it is NO WHERE near the danger spot.
As much as I hate to say it, with the water level low again this year, somebody is going to hit it. When I work on my boat this weekend I will pull up the exact coordinates of the spot where I was when it got me and post them here. It's a very expensive repair. Embarrassing too! But I am fairly new and it was a good lesson learned.
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03-07-2013, 07:15 PM #19
All very good suggestions. Another thing to remember is to load your gear in the boat and unhook your straps, put the plug in and all the other little things BEFORE pulling down to the ramp. I dont know how many times I have waited on people to load fishing poles, coolers etc while blocking the ramp. Catawba and Mazurik are both great ramps to go out of.
Imperial 24' walk-around
17' Mirrocraft
Lowrance Global Map 7600 HD
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03-07-2013, 08:24 PM #20
The bouy tender is to large to move into the area where it is a hazard to the recreational boater, it is probably 70 ft long or larger and requires to much water so they put the bouy in deeper water to mark the area! Middle Harbor reef (Short Reef) just out side of West Harbor is another one where the bouy is several hundred feet from the danger spot. I knocked almost all of the blades off of brand new 4 blade michigan wheel prop on that reef.
Last edited by wakina; 03-07-2013 at 08:28 PM.
Wakina
23 foot Pro Line
HDS 5X Sonar
HDS 5M GPS
Navonics chip, model #DMSD/649P+
Platinum Plus Lake Erie and Lake St Clair Marine.
Raymarine Dragonfly7 Sonar-Downvision-GPS combo with chirp technology.
Navonics Hotmaps Premium East chip
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