If your boat has hydraulic steering, nothing beats an autopilot on the main motor. I have an autopilot on the main and I have a kicker tied in. The best slow speed control (my AP is Raymarine EV150) occurs when both the kicker and main motors are down with two rudders in the water. It can do measured radius turns in any fishable conditions. Before that, I had TR1 which is a kicker AP. It was good, but not as good as the AP on the main motor. If Garmin had not discontinued it, I’d still be using today. I also have a 36v Ulterra Riptide. I’ll put this on the boat for inland fishing and perch fishing with spot lock. If my autopilot were to break, I’d use it to troll, but it’s pretty limited compared to an AP on the main motor. It’s really good at keeping you on a straight line with wind/waves at your back. The main benefit of a hydraulic AP on the main motor is the ability to do a hands free 180 or figure eight. A .1 mile radius turn is perfect to not worry about tangling your lines and the AP does it perfectly. None of that turning 15 degrees and waiting for it to straighten out then another 15 degrees. It just turns one degree every few seconds until you’ve completed your turn then it locks in once the turn is complete. It’s also very nice to have AP when running. You’d be surprised how much better you can focus on looking for floating debris, etc when you’re not having to steer also. You can be out by the weather buoy, set a course to mazurik, engage the AP and focus on watching the water vs making sure you’re headed in the right direction. I’ll often lock in that course home when we start pulling rods. Once the last rod is clear, I’ll start the main motor and pull the kicker. I’ll bring in the boards last, make sure everything’s stowed then throttle up for the return to launch. By the time all the gear is stowed we’ve gone 1/2 mile in the right direction.