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Thread: inline boards please help!!

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Location
    Toledo OH
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    140

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    I wrap my line around the main clip to the line twice so it can't release (have to take the board off while reeling in) and than for the tattle flag make sure you leave some slack (2 inches) and for the tattle clip there is a little button in the middle of it. Make sure you clip inside that button. Hope that helps!

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauken23 View Post
    I wrap my line around the main clip to the line twice so it can't release (have to take the board off while reeling in) and than for the tattle flag make sure you leave some slack (2 inches) and for the tattle clip there is a little button in the middle of it. Make sure you clip inside that button. Hope that helps!

    so i should be using the red clip and not the orange one in the rear? for some reason i watched a video on youtube and the guy said to switch the clips around. i have the upgraded adjustable clips in the front. maybe i should go back to the red clip in the rear so my line (12 lb big game) wont slip out and not allow the tattle flag to go down. i can't tell you how many times i've reeled in the board and there was a fish on there. i'm starting to get upset with these damn boards i've spent over a 100 dollars on. really want to get this figured out.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    nroyalton
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    We use the OR18 on the front and it does not slip with our mono.Think it also holds braid without slipping.We have the OR16 in back and don't wrap the back, but a couple of boards have the OR16 in front and we wrap those.The rougher the water the more likely the line can slip in the front release,and if all the slack line is pulled tight,the flag will not go down.We use the rubber bands as illustrated in previous reply.The secret,or best results with the flag going down is have just enough tension with rubber band or spring to barely keep the flag upright with the speed and lure/diver you are using.That can vary a lot from going .9mph in winter to 2.5mph in summer.Can be running tru trip 40 that pull hard to a perfect 10 without a weight.We use size 33 that get at staples and bought bag #19 that I can add if want more tension.With all that being said,had a lot of small fish on last Friday that did not pull down the flag.Was able to tell some of them by reading the boards,but some we just reeled in the whole side to check if anything on after a while of no activity.Takes time to get experience with the boards,but the inline boards most productive way to troll for walleye unless need a lot of lines out and then big boards are way to go.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Mansfield Ohio
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    675

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    We had the black or locking clip up front with those church clips in the rear, with our 30lb power pro no matter how tight I settle rear it would still slip sometimes and had to double wrap.

    This year I went to the same pro release up front with my licker in the rear. I like this setup but did take a little to figure out how to spool the sams release correctly. I like the front clip releasing and the board falling out of line. I have alot less tangles. No moving boards to get another past.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    warren, mi
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    574

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    Quote Originally Posted by branhamautomotive View Post
    We had the black or locking clip up front with those church clips in the rear, with our 30lb power pro no matter how tight I settle rear it would still slip sometimes and had to double wrap.
    I've had the metal adjustable superclips for over 9 yrs before the padding split (and that included tourney fishing). As far as slipping, I've only ever seen it with the plastic Church clips. I've shown many folks how I can put #30 braid into the clip fully at the rear. I can clamp the clip into one of my vises and the braid will cut your skin before you can get it to budge trying to make the line slip. I've always found slippage due to the line not being fully into the clip by the screw. Had it happen many time taking folks out. I show them again how. No more slips.
    That is what works for me.
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  6. #6

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    Not related to the clips (I use the OR-18 in the front and the OR-16 in the back and wrap them both) but be sure your doing the "upgrade" on your Offshore boards, it really does make a difference how they pull the hard diving baits like Bandits and heavy snap or keel weights. I was able to do mine with no new parts, just drilled a new hole in the flag for the wire to hook in.

    Offshore Board Update

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    North West Ohio, Allen County
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    391

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    Quote Originally Posted by WI Walleye View Post
    Not related to the clips (I use the OR-18 in the front and the OR-16 in the back and wrap them both) but be sure your doing the "upgrade" on your Offshore boards, it really does make a difference how they pull the hard diving baits like Bandits and heavy snap or keel weights. I was able to do mine with no new parts, just drilled a new hole in the flag for the wire to hook in.

    Offshore Board Update
    WI Walleye, You are right on the upgrades.. I have the OR -18 lever clamp front on my off shores, and the OR-16 on the rear. You are also right on the hard diving cranks.. I marked my line ( Power Pro braid) where it clipped to the front clip added my slack and clipped to the rear. Every time I checked it the front clip maintained its grip. It was the rear clip that slipped often and that had to be due to the force of the crank bait.. I rap the rear one now and it is cured. I may just start rapping the front one too like you said. Once you get used to it it should be quick and easy.. If ones eyes and fingers still work good and I struggle here a bit..
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  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Mansfield Ohio
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    Quote Originally Posted by ebijack View Post
    I've had the metal adjustable superclips for over 9 yrs before the padding split (and that included tourney fishing). As far as slipping, I've only ever seen it with the plastic Church clips. I've shown many folks how I can put #30 braid into the clip fully at the rear. I can clamp the clip into one of my vises and the braid will cut your skin before you can get it to budge trying to make the line slip. I've always found slippage due to the line not being fully into the clip by the screw. Had it happen many time taking folks out. I show them again how. No more slips.
    That is what works for me.
    Maybe I did not have it far enought back. I put the new flags on and moved the tattle spots, I have not been out yet with them but my brother says they pull much better

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
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    Catawba Is
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    I find these OR18 the best to be sure board doesn't fall off, but no help on the flag issue. I use red clips on the back but find the mono still pulls through and the flag seldom "tattles". I may try wrapping as others suggested. I use to wrap the black superclip but if different people wrap than remove they sometimes struggle getting the board off. The rubber on those super lips also cracks and tears and the line gets caught.
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