best snell for harness hooks?

I have recently gotten into tying my own crawler harnesses, i really enjoy it, and the first ones i made pulled in some heavy hard fighting sheedhead and took the abuse well, and of course they caught walleye. the problem i have is the type of snell i used, when storing them if the line gets a little slack the snell wants to come un-done, i dont like this i am afraid i wont catch it and risk losing fish. can someone post the instructions to a good snell method they use? i can find lots of them online, and most are NOT easy to tie. i been using the easy snell method, line through the eye and down along hook shank, take standing line and wrap 8 times then pass back up through the eye and pull tight, problem is any back slack from top hook to bottom hook and the bottom hook snell loosens. I was using trilene 12lb XL, which worked good but would get sorta kinked up after a day of fishing, so i got some trilene 14lb XT.

The Snell I use is both ends of line through the eye in opposite directions about an inch or two. Then lay one of the 2 inch ends, preferably the one that goes to the next hook or not the end that goes to your pole, down flat against the shank while holding that, wrap the loop made by the line around the shank and the 2 inch tag your holding down. Start at the top and make about 6 wraps heading towards the bottom of hook. Then wet lines and hold every thing thought with both hands and pull the 2 inch tag that would go to your pole till the loop tightens making your Snell. Careful not to let lines twist or it will kink causing a weak spot. Hope this helps... practice make perfect.

Check out this link

http://www.walleyesinc.com/walleyeinc3/howtotie.html

PDnaz, thats the method of snelling i used, and when storing on one of those barrel holders where you wrap the line around it and push the hooks in to secure them, if the line gets a little slack backwards it loosens that snell, thats the problem i am having

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Originally Posted by 870 ExpressMag

PDnaz, thats the method of snelling i used, and when storing on one of those barrel holders where you wrap the line around it and push the hooks in to secure them, if the line gets a little slack backwards it loosens that snell, thats the problem i am having

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I use that same method, but really wrap the line as tight as I can around the shank and sinch them down with all I got, and with 20 lb. floro. and haven't had an issue yet.

maybe i just need to be more careful when storing them, because when i did tie them up like that they stood up well to heavy hard fighting fish, only time i lot part of one was from a cat that had swallowed the whole mess and we only got part of it back.

Same here, I use the easy snell method. I would say it's the type of line you're using, or like Aaron said, you may need to cinch tighter. 14lb is pretty light. I prefer at least 20lb.

Greg

i was always under the impression that a lighter line could be tied tighter than a heavier line, that was not my purpose for using 12 and 14lb, i used what i had

I use this method and have not had a problem. 20# Ande is what I am using.
After tying I insert the hook through the hole where the chain goes on my
finger nail clippers and pull tight. Be sure to wrap at least 8 times. I just tried
to push the line back through the eye to unwrap and it looks good.

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Originally Posted by PDnaz

I use this method and have not had a problem. 20# Ande is what I am using.
After tying I insert the hook through the hole where the chain goes on my
finger nail clippers and pull tight. Be sure to wrap at least 8 times. I just tried
to push the line back through the eye to unwrap and it looks good.

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I always wrap 9 times. on the octopus hooks and 11 or 12 wraps on a treble.

water base fly head cement 1 fluid ounce bottle around 4 dollars at netcraft I put it on my hooks after I tie them and then on my loop knot then I hang them and go to the next harness dry in 5 minutes. I also use this product on my jig heads the thread. I havnt lost one since I started using this its clear and you can not see it on the rig works very well .a also use 20 pound mono and wrap 10 times then thru the hook eye and back around the loop and pull tightly set your hook in your table and pull tightly

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 870 ExpressMag

maybe i just need to be more careful when storing them, because when i did tie them up like that they stood up well to heavy hard fighting fish, only time i lot part of one was from a cat that had swallowed the whole mess and we only got part of it back.

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I was tying in the winter my cat seen the blade and next thing I know 50 bucks to the vet to remove the hook from her belly I had it in my hand she ripped it out and flew up the stairs when I got to her she had it in her lower belly and the barb was stuck try to pull a hook from a cat when shes awake

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Originally Posted by rscotfish

I was tying in the winter my cat seen the blade and next thing I know 50 bucks to the vet to remove the hook from her belly I had it in my hand she ripped it out and flew up the stairs when I got to her she had it in her lower belly and the barb was stuck try to pull a hook from a cat when shes awake

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870 I thought you were talking about a catfish:eek:

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Originally Posted by BossHogg

870 I thought you were talking about a catfish:eek:

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i was! i cant imagine pulling a hook out of an awake cat, i watch my wife give ours a bath, thats hard enough!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rscotfish

water base fly head cement 1 fluid ounce bottle around 4 dollars at netcraft I put it on my hooks after I tie them and then on my loop knot then I hang them and go to the next harness dry in 5 minutes. I also use this product on my jig heads the thread. I havnt lost one since I started using this its clear and you can not see it on the rig works very well .a also use 20 pound mono and wrap 10 times then thru the hook eye and back around the loop and pull tightly set your hook in your table and pull tightly

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i dont know why i never thought of the head cement, thats a good idea, since my problem is not with the strength of the knot, but with the slight loosening when pushing the hook into the rubber storage cylinder.

i still dont see how using the easy snell method pulling any tighter is gonna make it so it cant be pushed back through the eyelet and loosen, i use a gomakatsu walleye wide gap hook with the up turned eye, i put end of line from top to bottom through the eye, or essentially back to front and lay the tag end down along back of hook shank, take the standing line and make my wraps from the eye down toward the hook loop, after the wraps are done then i take the standing line and go back up through the hook eye, basically from back to front and then that leaves my running line going up straight through the eyelet for a straight pull on the hook, but it is just continued from the last wrap of the snell then up through the eyelet, so the tighter you pull it, makes the wraps tighter, but when pushed backwards, starts loosening the wraps at the bottom of the snell first, i guess i dont understand how it can get locked down so tight as not to looosen when pushed backwards with this method, unless i am missing something or missing a step, thanks for the help guys i appreciate it