Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Results 11 to 20 of 21
Thread: inline boards please help!!
-
06-05-2017, 08:37 PM #11
Don't get frustrated! It takes a little time and you will learn to read those boards like a book. I don't even use tattle tale flags. I set my clickers lite so any hit should give a click. I also use TT40's and they tend to pull the rear of the board down because they dive hard. If I notice a board sitting more level I know that I'm dragging something. Just give yourself time to learn to read those boards and you won't need all that other stuff.
-
06-05-2017, 08:39 PM #12
It was pretty hard to read the fish the same size as my bandit today in the waves lol... Good point though. The thing you do is the thing you learn so just keep at it and it'll come. I'm still learning a lot. And for eyecrazy, what about waves changing the amount of pull on the boards compared to tiny fish with the clickers?
-
06-06-2017, 04:37 AM #13
i agree my reels the drag is set so light that a decent wave will cause a click or two.
-
06-06-2017, 04:56 AM #14
There are a few options on replacement clips. What color clips do you have on your boards now? Do you want the clips to lock down? Do you fish with kids or folks with arthritis? Do you want your front clip to release when a fish hits and the board fall out of formation towards the rear of the boat? Or just snap the rod to have the front clip release, again the rear clip holds and the board falls out of formation so you can check/change a bait. Then run the board back out to the original location?
Most folks seem to prefer the boards to stay attached with both clips. Lots of us want the front clip to release. Your choice. My wife still prefers both clips to stay attached on her side. So I use the super clips both locations on her side boards. My side I use the orange Offshore clips on the front, super clips on the rear.
Suggestion: If you want to double wrap your line around a clip. A simple method is to double wrap your line around your first two fingers with about 1/2" gap between your fingers. Now place/slid the doubled line into the waiting clip (top side of your fingers), let go of the clip and your line is now double wrapped. Easier to show than explain.
If you don't want to deal with that. I've used these for years with excellent results.
https://www.franksgreatoutdoors.com/...superclip.html
The metal super clips, NOT the fiber ones. The easiest clip to open I have ever used and will hold braid if you run braided line. No double wrapping of the line.
Setting the clicker on as light as possible is a great alarm to let you know something is going on, either fish or weeds if you don't happen to be watching every board at every second.
A tattle flag set properly will go down before your clicker will click, so they are a useful tool. Not just for beginners.
I do not use springs, I use #32 rubberbands. Yes I break a few each season, but for $7 you can get 1lb bag ( you can get bags of 100 or less if they are in stock). Enough for you and everyone you know...for years.
Cut a small "V" notch at the top spring location hole
Wrap the rubber band around the clip arm and the flag or tattle wire. The rubber band stays where ever you place it. You can adjust from no tension to enough for 4oz bouncers that won't pull the flag down. In seconds even with cold wet hands.
I can only hope I have earned the freedom that has been given me.
-
06-06-2017, 07:05 AM #15
We had the black or locking clip up front with those church clips in the rear, with our 30lb power pro no matter how tight I settle rear it would still slip sometimes and had to double wrap.
This year I went to the same pro release up front with my licker in the rear. I like this setup but did take a little to figure out how to spool the sams release correctly. I like the front clip releasing and the board falling out of line. I have alot less tangles. No moving boards to get another past.
-
06-06-2017, 07:10 AM #16
I find these OR18 the best to be sure board doesn't fall off, but no help on the flag issue. I use red clips on the back but find the mono still pulls through and the flag seldom "tattles". I may try wrapping as others suggested. I use to wrap the black superclip but if different people wrap than remove they sometimes struggle getting the board off. The rubber on those super lips also cracks and tears and the line gets caught.JBD's Regina Marie (Johnny Big Dawg)
The Regina Marie: 2008 340 Sea Ray with Sportsman Package
Twin 8.1L Inboards, Autopilot
Rocket Launchers, Cisco Rod Holders, Scotty Downriggers
Raymarine w/ Navionics, Radar, Rear TV to duplicate display or watch the game
Sirius radio usually jamming Margaritaville
-
06-06-2017, 07:21 AM #17
I've had the metal adjustable superclips for over 9 yrs before the padding split (and that included tourney fishing). As far as slipping, I've only ever seen it with the plastic Church clips. I've shown many folks how I can put #30 braid into the clip fully at the rear. I can clamp the clip into one of my vises and the braid will cut your skin before you can get it to budge trying to make the line slip. I've always found slippage due to the line not being fully into the clip by the screw. Had it happen many time taking folks out. I show them again how. No more slips.
That is what works for me.I can only hope I have earned the freedom that has been given me.
-
06-06-2017, 10:42 AM #18
Not related to the clips (I use the OR-18 in the front and the OR-16 in the back and wrap them both) but be sure your doing the "upgrade" on your Offshore boards, it really does make a difference how they pull the hard diving baits like Bandits and heavy snap or keel weights. I was able to do mine with no new parts, just drilled a new hole in the flag for the wire to hook in.
Offshore Board Update
-
06-06-2017, 11:58 AM #19
We use the OR18 on the front and it does not slip with our mono.Think it also holds braid without slipping.We have the OR16 in back and don't wrap the back, but a couple of boards have the OR16 in front and we wrap those.The rougher the water the more likely the line can slip in the front release,and if all the slack line is pulled tight,the flag will not go down.We use the rubber bands as illustrated in previous reply.The secret,or best results with the flag going down is have just enough tension with rubber band or spring to barely keep the flag upright with the speed and lure/diver you are using.That can vary a lot from going .9mph in winter to 2.5mph in summer.Can be running tru trip 40 that pull hard to a perfect 10 without a weight.We use size 33 that get at staples and bought bag #19 that I can add if want more tension.With all that being said,had a lot of small fish on last Friday that did not pull down the flag.Was able to tell some of them by reading the boards,but some we just reeled in the whole side to check if anything on after a while of no activity.Takes time to get experience with the boards,but the inline boards most productive way to troll for walleye unless need a lot of lines out and then big boards are way to go.
-
06-06-2017, 01:35 PM #20
-
Similar Threads
-
Inline boards
By Big Trouble in forum Western Lake Erie Fishing REPORTSReplies: 8Last Post: 05-05-2016, 10:20 AM -
Inline vs Snap Weights
By wakina in forum Western Lake Erie Fishing REPORTSReplies: 2Last Post: 05-20-2015, 08:02 AM -
Big Boards vs Inline Planer Boards
By Jiga-Byte in forum Western Lake Erie Fishing REPORTSReplies: 13Last Post: 03-30-2015, 12:29 PM -
Flat line vs inline boards
By tkcamp in forum Western Lake Erie Fishing DiscussionReplies: 0Last Post: 05-29-2013, 12:06 PM -
Inline planer boards
By walleye65 in forum The Walleye MARKETPLACEReplies: 0Last Post: 03-17-2009, 10:12 AM
Price reduced to $26,000
1995 Proline 2950 30 ft