I tie all my rods, braid or mono with a swivel/clip. I am going to add a bead when i retie them all next time because folks keep reeling them into the tip of my rods and it has opened the clip a few times and i lost my leader and bandit. I tie 3' 20lb fluorocarbon leaders with a duo lock clip for running crank baits, this keeps the line twist down when you hook into a spinning fish like a white bass or sheep head or a weird hooked walleye. This allows me to change the leader when it is getting nicked up by teeth and not have to mess with my calibrated spooled line. I run all of my inline weights with offshore OR16 snap weights all 2oz. I do not mix weight sizes on a side of the boat, again for consistency, same lead same weight size adjust depth with line out after 50' longest leads farthest away from boat. For crank baits run the exact same lead at 50', 20' whatever you prefer for all of them, this keeps everything consistent and prevents tangles. If you are going to run baits with weights and without weights on the same side the ones without weights must be farthest from the boat. The line with a weight always runs a steeper dive and will catch the line without a weight every time. On dipsy divers and jets I run a 6' 20lb fluorocarbon leader with a duo lock clip. The swivel on the dipsy and jet handles line twist. On bottom bouncers i run a 4' 20lb fluorocarbon leader and tie all of my harnesses about a foot long. The swivel on the bouncer handles twist and i put a duo lock clip on the harness end. This also makes storing and changing the harnesses much easier as they are not so long. If running harnesses up in the water column with inline weight i just use the offshore OR16 snap weights, sometimes i mix up the lead from 4' to 20' to see if it makes a difference and it makes it much easier to pick up and move and to store the rods when running in or out, just remove the snap and hook up and go. Just some things I do pick your style and roll with it.