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I have 1977 searay 24' weekender with 350 chevy, im using wolfshead 40 weight oil and have hard time finding this oil. I was told I need Zinc additive in my oil for this older engine. is there a brand of oil that is more available for getting locally in Toledo area. I want to get the oil changed before I put boat in water and need to resolve this soon.
Most all auto parts stores carry Lucus oil zinc additive and you can add that to your crank case when changing oil. A good oil would be Shell Rotella 15w40 formulated for diesels as it has all of the additives needed for a marine engine to fight the corrosion that a marine engine is exposed to. I just repowered my boat and once again the engine supplier recomended the Rotella oil and the Lucas zinc additive which helps when you have a regular lobed (flat tappet) cam shaft found in older engines, it is not needed with a roller cam. The Rotella oil is available at Walmart in both quart and gallon jugs, also at most auto parts stores. I have ran it for years with absolutely no issues. I have repowered twice over the years but never due to an oil(lubrication) problem. This oil has served me well.
Andersons in maumee carry's a wide range of wolfshead lubrication products......seem to always be in stock also, just an fyi
Anybody know what code or labeling is on the bottle that tells or represents if the zinc additive in the oil???
I just had my engine rebuilt. My builder pretty much said any street legal oil will not have enough ZDDP (zinc, phosphorus) in it. You will be looking at an off road/racing oil to find the correct amount of ZDDP in the oil. I believe you want 1200-1400 ppm. There is an older API rating that would work but cant think of the rating. I personally chose Brad Penns 15w40.
You need oil with the API rating of CI-4 or CI-4 Plus. If both of these are missing in the API ratings chart printed on the oil container then there is not enough or possibly no zinc phosphorus in the oil. Regular oil formulated for gas engines no longer has the zinc phosphorus in the needed PPM due to the cat. converters that are required. The zinc phosphorus plugs them up. That is why diesel motor oil still has it with no cat. converter to plug up. Hope this helps.
I was told many years ago that you should use straight weight oil because
when using a multi weight (IE) 15-40 the average marine engine does not reach 180 degrees (not including closed systems) therefore you are using only the 15 weight portion of the oil, the 40 weight portion only becomes effective at or over 180 degrees,dont know if this is true but it seems to make sence.
I use castrol straight 50 weight racing oil in my boat. I also agree that
Shell Rotella is probably the best, I use it in my trucks,front end loaders,Ect.
I am also a believer in the lucas products, I had a 1975 Lyman and the rear main was leaking and the lucas formula definatly worked. And I am not a big
believer of fix it in a can. lol Good fishing to all. Tinkertoy (john)
Here is how the viscosity rating is explained. The following is from the link that I have provided at the end of the quote. Also the operating temp of the engine is measured by water temperature and not oil temperature. Oil temps are almost always higher than the water(cooling) temp as oil is only cooled from the heat exchange effect created by the water cooled system. That is unless there is an oil cooler installed.
Quote " Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.
Your engine needs oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil. This is the best of both worlds and is accomplished by using special additives to increase viscosity with increase temperature. " Unquote
http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm
I hope this helps clear up some of the mystery that seems to surround what the viscosity numbers mean and when they are achieved as engine oil temps rise. 10w40 oil would have a rating of 10 at zero degrees and 40 at 210 degrees! The viscosity of the multi grade oil rises with the temperature of the oil and increases the oils wear protection.
Wakina. Your explanation makes a hell of a lot more sence than what I was told, I was given that info many many years ago and I wondered about that then. Thanks for the GOOD info. Tinkertoy.
bucyrus ohio 419562parts wolfshead oil ohio auto parts. john the owner will be glad to help youQuote:
Originally Posted by gspoerl