need some advice on 350 mercruiser

well guys i just bought a 25 ft sea ray. the old owner had a new engine installed about 5 yrs ago, he put about 20 hrs on the motor then he died. so the guy i got the boat from told me this and that it has been setting for the last 5 yrs. he said they did start the motor back in july and it seemed to run great. i dont know if this was good or bad.

there are some things i would like to do before i start it again this spring. im just looking for any suggestions or ideas of what all i should do before running the engine.

the boat is a 25' x 8'6" and i believe the motor to be a 350 vortec with a 2 bbl carb. the boat is alittle rough after setting for so long. but if the motor is good it will still make a great erie boat. so i want to do what i can to make sure i dont do something to hurt the engine.

so please help me out on things i should do before running the motor.
sherman

Change oil and all filters (fuel, oil, and fuel/water Separator) if so equipped. Change the spark plugs, lower unit oil. Cap and rotor then check timing. Check to make sure the steering, throttle and shift cables all work freely and see if there is a grease zert on the steering assembly which is attached to the transom behind the engine if so grease it. Grease the engine coupler, there should be access behind the engine, you can see the bell housing and there is a grease zert located on the outside of the engine coupler. Grease the tilt and pivot on the lower unit they are located on the outside of the boat and are easy to see fairly close to the transom. Check the boots for cracks and deterioration the drive boot and the shift boot can sink you if leaking or torn. Try to remove all the old fuel and replace with fresh fuel. Lastly run the engine with cooling muffs on it with the engine box open for at least 15 min. while checking constantly the area around the bottom of the carb to make sure there is no fuel leaking from bottom gasket/seal and also that there is no leakage from the other seals located on and in the carb., there should be absolutly no fuel leaking in on on the engine or bilge. PM me with any questions.

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Originally Posted by wakina

Change oil and all filters (fuel, oil, and fuel/water Separator) if so equipped. Change the spark plugs, lower unit oil. Cap and rotor then check timing. Check to make sure the steering, throttle and shift cables all work freely and see if there is a grease zert on the steering assembly which is attached to the transom behind the engine if so grease it. Grease the engine coupler, there should be access behind the engine, you can see the bell housing and there is a grease zert located on the outside of the engine coupler. Grease the tilt and pivot on the lower unit they are located on the outside of the boat and are easy to see fairly close to the transom. Check the boots for cracks and deterioration the drive boot and the shift boot can sink you if leaking or torn. Try to remove all the old fuel and replace with fresh fuel. Lastly run the engine with cooling muffs on it with the engine box open for at least 15 min. while checking constantly the area around the bottom of the carb to make sure there is no fuel leaking from bottom gasket/seal and also that there is no leakage from the other seals located on and in the carb., there should be absolutly no fuel leaking in on on the engine or bilge. PM me with any questions.

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thank you for chiming in, you listed some things i never even thought of doing. some of the pm,s i,ve got gave me some good ideas also. one guy was kind enough to offer me a tool where you remove the distridutor and you take a drill and it fits the oil pump so you can turn the oil pump and prime the oil. one guy suggested to remove the coil wire and crank the engine over while fogging the engine real heavy like when you winterize it, and then let it set for a few days for the oil in the fogger could seep in around the rings and valve stems.

i have already thought about the waterpump. i was going to replace the impeller. but someone said i already have it out i might as well change the upper housing. and i agree with him. you can get a kit off ebay for 21.75 for the housing and impeller and all new gaskets.

and after what you just said i might as well change all the bellows. i think i will just get a bellows kit with new gimbel bearing and shift cable and then maby even put new u joints in it. and you gave me a great idea about the old gas. i already have an old inline electric fuel pump from an old motorhome i owned. i can hook it up and pump most of the old gas out, then add fresh gas and some carb treatment. i have seen some old carbs set for years back in the old days on cars. but we didnt have moonshine in our gas back then,LOL.

the guy i bought it from just started it up back in july. i sure hope he didnt hurt anything, like maby braking rings if they were stuck. but he said it ran great, but he never pushed it like being out on the lake. so i have my fingers crossed.

anyone elce have any more ideas. im open to your suggestions. heres a good chance to give your opinion and not get slammed for giving it,LOL.
sherman

If the boat only has 20 hrs on the new motor everything should still be almost like new and there should not be alot of deposits on the valves or rings to make them stick, but the fogging oil is a very good idea, so is a complete new lower unit water pump. If you remove the distrubitor, Just be sure you mark the distributor where the rotor is facing so you don't reassemble 180 degrees from where it should be the RPMs should be 650 at idle and is adjustable with a screw located on the throttle linkage on the carb. If you have never changed boots before there is alot more there than meets the eye and if you are like me some professional help may be required. It may pay you to invest in a remote start button they are available at any discount auto parts stores for a few bucks and you can fog the engine and set the initial timing with out help it makes things a whole lot easier if you need to work alone. Forgot to mention the exhaust boots located on the risers and the exhaust tubes they are most likely just fine but the may need tightened.

Sounds like Wakina nailed it....make sure to check your boots/ or BELLOWS- they will sink you, it almost happend to me on previous boat. Move your trim and tilt up and down while looking for tears in your boots. While at that, check your battery status, how its wired to a saftey floater switch to buildge pump, and consider adding a dual battery setup. Safe boating in 2013