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I was supposed to have posted pics of my wire harnesses earlier this year , seems that I failed to do that so here are a couple of pic's with one not having hooks attached yet. These worked really well this past season and I can switch from harness to spoon, crank or different harness with out all the leader wraping. I use the same leader for all three and this makes storage so much easier. If anyone wants more pic's just ask and I will get more up with different patterns.
i see no reason these shouldnt catch fish. most of the harnesses i use are tandem blade and tied with wire line. and they catch alot of fish. i think the worm is the most important part of your harness,LOL. but i do believe color does sometimes makes a big difference. last july we had a day where nuclear green caught 90% of our fish. and my favorite color is anything purple. but after about 4 or 5 fish on the green we started changing a few lures,LOL.
sherman
I also make them with the traditional 6mm & 8mm beads but have reverted back (as near as possible) to what we used to use back in the 50's. They do get beat up but as long as the blades turn freely I don't change them out, but I do change the hooks after several fish. I can also use the blades and beads over and have never lost a blade due to breakage. It is so easy to store these that I changed to the stirrup clevis from the quick change clevis for better action with the hatchet blades. When they need to be rebuilt I just cut and discard the wire and reuse the other components.Quote:
Originally Posted by sherman51
Not sure if this would be easier for you, I use #15 or #30 test. Both are close in dia., mostly depends on the eyelet size of your hooks. With the coated cable it still snells easily. I ended up switching back to using #17 test mono as I didn't see much difference, it's easier to tye up new out on the water when needed.
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...t/100_1262.jpg