Wire former

This is the wire former that I settled on, it is Little pricey but has paid for itself with saved components and fewer doctors visits due to hook wounds.
A pool noodle is one of those colorful foam cylinders that kids use in the pool to help them float they are about 4 ft long and 3" around and when cut down to a manageable size are used to wrap the traditional worm harnesses around. The hooks still remain exposed and youngsters seem to always find them once they penetrate their fingers. Just the nature of kids and exposed hooks I guess. Anyhow this type of harness does solve the problem, and they are so much easier to store.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/wire-fo...ls/421150.aspx

So just to verify what you use this for, I think I have it straight but correct me if I'm wrong.

You make your harness patterns by adding your beads and blades to a wire which you bend with this tool. You tie your snells with cable and attach them as needed to your harnesses. You really only need to replace your snells, since the harnesses are only connected to the hook by the snap swivel?

I'm seriously interested in this system. I love making harnesses, but I hate it when I HAVE to make them because everything I have was mangled by sheep or white bass. I'd love to just snell my hooks and tie my harnesses once.

Also, I love not needing to mess with leaders. Ever since switching to cable I haven't had to replace a leader and that's been a major time saver.

Any advice on what size cable and wire?

Thanks,.,,

This is the type of wire that I use, but not necessarily from Jann's. It is available from several outlets in different guage size. You can also use the straight wire with no bends and do both ends, it does save a little money. I would not recommend going any smaller in diameter than the .030 as any thing smaller is almost to flimsy or any size larger than .035 or .036 as it is to hard to make clean twisted closed ends. Just put your beads and blade on just like using a mono/flouro leader. They will get beat up but you can continue to use them so long as the blade still spins freely with out worrying about break offs.

Here is a link to show you what the wire form looks like.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/wire-lu...ts/320608.aspx

Here is the link to the coated wire cable for the hook snells. I use red or black.

http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/afw-lea...re/311667.aspx

I just use a small snap to attach the snells to the wire form.

Disclaimer: I am in no way advocating you should get your supplies from Jann's although they are available there and are a reputable business. I only posted the sites as reference to show pictures of what I use.

Thanks Wakina,,, I shop all around I appreciate the info. More stuff to buy now :)

Can you guys enlighten a novice? I'm a little dense as well. How does the wire system replace traditional crawler harnesses? Do you have any pictures?

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Originally Posted by bdrieck

Can you guys enlighten a novice? I'm a little dense as well. How does the wire system replace traditional crawler harnesses? Do you have any pictures?

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Here you go some pictures of harness on wire forms, all of these have caught fish. The one on the bottom has the snell attached. The best fish catchers have the large diamond shaped ruby red acrylic/Plastic bead I only wish I could get that bead in orange.

Just attach to your diver or inline wt with a regular leader of what ever length that you want. When you change out the harness or go to a spoon simply take the harness/spoon off and replace with the new bait using the already attached separate leader. It makes it easier/faster to switch from one bait to another.

NOTE: There are 3 components below the diver/wt, a separate leader, the wire form harness blade bead assembly and the removable/replaceable hook snell. Thus no pool noodles for harness storage.


Attachment 3691

Two seasons ago I had reached out to Wakina regarding the wire form harnesses he makes. Through a lot of schooling and help from him I made several and continue to do so. I have found this rig to be very productive during the crawler season. I would
also like to add that Wakina went out of his way to help me with this setup. To date I have never met Wakina but I'm very thankful for men like him.

Kevin
Fish Tales

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Fish Tales

Two seasons ago I had reached out to Wakina regarding the wire form harnesses he makes. Through a lot of schooling and help from him I made several and continue to do so. I have found this rig to be very productive during the crawler season. I would
also like to add that Wakina went out of his way to help me with this setup. To date I have never met Wakina but I'm very thankful for men like him.

Kevin
Fish Tales

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Thanks: Fish Tales

LOL, I have eliminated the use of all the glass beads though for new harnesses, that sure was a poor choice on my part for components. I still have a few assembled harnesses with the glass beads but once they are gone I will never again use them(glass beads) as they are just to fragile. I do save all of the blades though when I cut the wire, I even save the clevises.

I guess the secret is out!! I have been using this very system for the past 3 seasons. Works like a charm. Only difference is that I tie my snells with 14 lb fluoro. I keep all the componants in a large Plano box no snarls or tangles...great system.

HYPO

It is nice to have people out there who let out their tricks of the trade.

I have my new former coming on UPS I didn't think that was to unreasonable of a price for what all it can do.


Thanks,

Kent

Kent

It is nice. In fact, I got the idea from a similar thread on this forum three years ago. One of the charter captains posted this system, I tried it and liked it. Actually a simple but brilliant solution to a vexing problem. Now I may again modify my approach by trying the cable snells that Wakina uses. This a great forum.

HYPO

HYPO,

I am with you there. I'm not sure on the cable what knots to use and stuff.. I do not mind making the snells from mono. I guess the cable method will certainly last longer and be stronger and if by chance a musky or big northern gave it a wack it would give some more strength too.

PPDR

Wow. that is awesome. I am tired of winding the harness leaders and taking up a bunch of space. not to mention the hooks. LOL. I can't agree with you guys more.. Wakina you are the bomb. thank you for all of your posts and willingness to share information.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bdrieck

Wow. that is awesome. I am tired of winding the harness leaders and taking up a bunch of space. not to mention the hooks. LOL. I can't agree with you guys more.. Wakina you are the bomb. thank you for all of your posts and willingness to share information.

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I prefer 14# or 17# coated wire in red or black but lately those 2 wt's. have been hard to come by. I have used mono and fluorocarbon but have found the coated wire to be more durable in the shorter lengths as it does not seem to be able to kink as much and is pretty much tooth and gill cover proof.

I use a regular Snell knot for the hook closest to the blade and sometimes just use a crimping sleeve for the last hook on the business end. To make it even simpler and to get that hook as close to the blade bead assembly as possible I attach the hook Snell with a crimp on sleeve while making the blade bead assembly at home. I do keep extra Snell's made up with the snap for a quick change over while on the water in case a hook bends or breaks.

This method does make a nice neat little package for storage on board. To date I have not lost a bead or blade due to breakage or a weak link in the system. I also use Fire-line Crystal in 20# test for my leaders with a stainless steel ball bearing snap swivel and stainless steel ball Bearing swivel on the ends of my leaders, and no it does not seem to spook the fish.