So many people have told me good ol' 20lb XT. I have heard many pro's say 12lb XT because the walleye has very good vision or to upgrade to a 17-20lb Floro. What are you guys using?
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So many people have told me good ol' 20lb XT. I have heard many pro's say 12lb XT because the walleye has very good vision or to upgrade to a 17-20lb Floro. What are you guys using?
I use 20# Ande mono for the harness only because fluorocarbon seems to degrade for me quickly. I make a solid stainless wire harness for the spinner section "Wakina" Style, and then build a two or three hook snell using heavy mono or coated stainless wire.
so a 3 foot lead, connected to the stainless wired spinner, then the snell. 3 pieces works great and heavy duty. I use quality ball bearing swivels at both ends of the lead. There should be some past posts from Wakina showing his harness designs.
I found this if you are interested :::
https://community.walleye.com/showth...ghlight=wakina Scroll to the bottom of thread It shows his set up.
I'm using 17# fluoro most of the time and still using the Wakina style also, but each time I get the Wakina style out of my bag they seem to disappear. I run a dbl, or trp. snelled hooks using fluoro. off them. I usually keep fluoro. and XT on hand at camp.
Gene
I use 17lb Seaguar fluorocarbon for both trolling and casting harness.Captain Eric explained on this same topic,that mono is more resistant to abrasion than fluorocarbon.Plus had a great utube demo showing it being tested.The popular thinking is that the fluorocarbon is more expensive but harder for fish to see.The opposing view is mono is cheaper and last longer.In the western basin the visibility is not as critical due to the muddy and stained water.
17# XT is all I have ever used
I use Big Game 15lb on everything. I troll small boards and have no issues at all.
i use 20 pound vanish line on all harnesses and weapons
20# seaguar premier fluro, its the best.
Yeah,that 20lb Seaguar is probably the best to use.I had used Vanish for many years until I got a bad batch of 17 lb test that was smaller diameter than usual and had some failures.
For me, I use #17 XT. The line will go thru most hook eyelets for snelling. Where some brands of #20 you have to move up a size in hooks for a larger eyelet.
I use 14#XT green. I have tried the fluorocarbons, but have a tangling problem with them. I tie my harnesses in the off season and store them in 3" X 3" zip lock baggies. With the Trilene 14# XT I can take a harness (3 hook, 8 bead) out of one of the bags, hook it on and I'm done. With the fluorocarbon line when I take them out to use them, they invariably tangle and I spend a couple minutes before I am fishing. Small thing, but it gets annoying.
at least trilene 20lb super tough XL with no1-2 gami hooks, you get the big bad boys chopping on that crawler harness with anything less, you'll be re tying your snells alot more often or losing fish to tooth abrasion. I find after just a few trips out, I'm breaking my snells down and relining in fear of losing my most favored spinner combos killing the walleye.Always have a good supply of replicas ready to replace circumspect harnesses.Down time retying out at sea sucks big time.Another consideration is that that super tough in snag times will likely just cause a hook to break or bend and you won't lose your favorite spinner of the day due to line snap.! I do use green line, sucks to have eyesight that grapples with the clear in tying up snells...lol
green has been my go to all the time anyways.
also, line stretch and twisting is a huge consideration to avoid with lesser strength line.Compromising a bit from visual detection by fish in bigger line is outweighed in losing tackle and tearing things up while you are fishing.And just a tip for storing those 3-4 ft snells, just get a round pool floatie, cut in 20 inch pieces, get shingle nails and stick them in and wrap your snells around to store them, easy go to, never tangles or kinked should get 15 snell ties per floatie.