Kicker Rigging

Anyone have a recommendation where to take a boat to get a kicker setup? I just purchased 9.9 Pro Kicker, I'm looking to get it tied into my main fuel tank. Would also like to have it connected to the big outboard for steering from the helm. Its power trim/tilt so I will be looking for a fixed mount to be installed. I'm looking to have this professionally installed, mainly because I don't have the time to do it myself and I want to be fishing very soon.

Looking for somebody who does good work in the Toledo, Port Clinton, or Marblehead area.

Only one I have on my call list at the moment is Dubberts in PC. Anyone have any other recommendations?

Thanks,

Matt

Check with mikes dockside. Right on 163 across from fort Firelands campgrounds

buckeyebob check your pms

Ok, I could use some more thoughts/opinions on this topic. I've taken my boat to a couple of different places to get the 9.9 rigged. Both places wanted to use a Panther Electro Steer T5 for steering. I would prefer to have a simple tie rod connecting my main to the kicker so that I can steer with the wheel. They both seem to think this wont work on my boat. The boat has twin outboard 2 strokes for main motors. They have a hydraulic cyclinder for steering. I'm not sure why I cant use a tie rod for this setup. Anyone have any expertise on this matter? Also would like opinions on the Panther T5 system. My fear is that it won't respond quick enough to adjust in less than ideal lake conditions, or heavy boat traffic. If anyone has this system, I would love to hear your opinion.

Thanks,

Matt

I had a electro steer on my 9.9 Yahm and ended up sending it back I know they work but not for me. I tie my kicker to my main but I have a single 225 Yahm and Garmin a/p not really happy with it next move will be TR-1 on my kicker. Where is your kicker located?

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Originally Posted by Jiga-Byte

Ok, I could use some more thoughts/opinions on this topic. I've taken my boat to a couple of different places to get the 9.9 rigged. Both places wanted to use a Panther Electro Steer T5 for steering. I would prefer to have a simple tie rod connecting my main to the kicker so that I can steer with the wheel. They both seem to think this wont work on my boat. The boat has twin outboard 2 strokes for main motors. They have a hydraulic cyclinder for steering. I'm not sure why I cant use a tie rod for this setup. Anyone have any expertise on this matter? Also would like opinions on the Panther T5 system. My fear is that it won't respond quick enough to adjust in less than ideal lake conditions, or heavy boat traffic. If anyone has this system, I would love to hear your opinion.

Thanks,

Matt

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I use the T4 unit and like it very well. I have never had a situation that I have felt the least bit out of control. Now with that being said there is a slower reaction time involved when steering but nothing that I feel the need to improve on, just take the time to learn its oddities. Learning to avoid places and situations that puts more demand on your equipment than can be reasonably expected out of it is just good practice. So far my T4 has been bullet proof. The T5 is more compact in design and made to fit into a more confined spot where there is not enough room for the longer T4.

I would ask them why they feel the T5 is better suited for you instead of the tie rod. But from what you have stated so far I think maybe the distance from the main out board to the kicker might be to close for the tie rod to work properly, I base that on the fact you have twins and they are mounted off center on each side of the center line leaving a much shorter distance for the steering rod to function. But that is only my opinion based upon a semi-educated guess.

Not an expect here, but do know a little. You mentioned you have hydraulic steering. My question is where does the hydraulic power come from, normally hydraulic power comes from the main motors, but could come from an electric pump as well. But if it comes from main motors, you won't have power steering unless they are running. Now manually steering a power system without the power assistance is possable but very tiring on the arms. I think we have all driving a car with ps that is not running and can be a work out.

I would think your hydraulic steering would be one of the main reason they are saying use an electric power unit instead of just a tie bar.

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Originally Posted by branhamautomotive

Not an expect here, but do know a little. You mentioned you have hydraulic steering. My question is where does the hydraulic power come from, normally hydraulic power comes from the main motors, but could come from an electric pump as well. But if it comes from main motors, you won't have power steering unless they are running. Now manually steering a power system without the power assistance is possable but very tiring on the arms. I think we have all driving a car with ps that is not running and can be a work out.

I would think your hydraulic steering would be one of the main reason they are saying use an electric power unit instead of just a tie bar.

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I am not sure that he actually has hydraulic steering, I base that on most outboards with power assist have a cylinder attached that resembles a hydraulic cylinder but are actually a pneumatic cylinder you fill with air pressure and that acts as a damper from engine torque and assists in making turns. I am not questioning what he is saying about what he has but only relating what my experience has been. I had the pneumatic cylinder steering assist on my 30 ft T-Craft when I ran charters years ago. It had twin 2 cycle 225 HP Mercury outboards for power. If the pump for hydraulic steering would be independent of the motors then just turning the key to the on position should power the pump.

The boat has a SeaStar hydraulic cyclinder. It does not have any type of electric pump, and the engines do not have to be running. The reason they don't think the connecting rod will work, is because of the offset of the kicker motor. The transom area of my boat is a little unique. It has two swim platforms on each side of the engines. The engines are kinda tucked up in the middle of the two swim platforms. So the kicker will be mounted on the starbird and offset quite a bit. I'm thinking of having someone custom bend me a stainless steel tie rod and have heim joints threaded on the ends for lateral movement to raise and lower the drive.

That is unless you guys convince me that the Panther Electro Steer is the way to go. I don't mind spending the extra money, as long as it is a good and effective system. I just don't want to end up with something that I don't like. I am attaching a couple of pictures of the back of my boat, so you can see what Im up against.Attachment 3717Attachment 3718

That makes sense, I was just going by what he said he had. He said he had hydraulics. Though I have not ever seen a outboard have a power steering pump I am sure there is some out there.

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Originally Posted by Jiga-Byte

The boat has a SeaStar hydraulic cyclinder. It does not have any type of electric pump, and the engines do not have to be running. The reason they don't think the connecting rod will work, is because of the offset of the kicker motor. The transom area of my boat is a little unique. It has two swim platforms on each side of the engines. The engines are kinda tucked up in the middle of the two swim platforms. So the kicker will be mounted on the starbird and offset quite a bit. I'm thinking of having someone custom bend me a stainless steel tie rod and have heim joints threaded on the ends for lateral movement to raise and lower the drive.

That is unless you guys convince me that the Panther Electro Steer is the way to go. I don't mind spending the extra money, as long as it is a good and effective system. I just don't want to end up with something that I don't like. I am attaching a couple of pictures of the back of my boat, so you can see what Im up against.Attachment 3717Attachment 3718

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Check out this link, it is cable kicker steering system made by Seastar. It is designed to be used with their Hyd steering systems.
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...ble-single.pdf

Good luck,
G/fish

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Originally Posted by Gradyfish

Check out this link, it is cable kicker steering system made by Seastar. It is designed to be used with their Hyd steering systems.
http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-c...ble-single.pdf

Good luck,
G/fish

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Gradyfish - I aw this when searching the internet for solutions. The only question I have, is if it will work with twins? It looks like it's meant to run through the existing linkage of the main motor.

Do you have this system? Love to hear more about it.

Matt

Personally I would just upgrade your main power to four strokes and be done with it. Your going to spend 5k on adding a kicker and if you look online you get get a set of very nice used motors for 10-12k. Then you can sell your existing motors and get some cost back too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jiga-Byte

The boat has a SeaStar hydraulic cyclinder. It does not have any type of electric pump, and the engines do not have to be running. The reason they don't think the connecting rod will work, is because of the offset of the kicker motor. The transom area of my boat is a little unique. It has two swim platforms on each side of the engines. The engines are kinda tucked up in the middle of the two swim platforms. So the kicker will be mounted on the starbird and offset quite a bit. I'm thinking of having someone custom bend me a stainless steel tie rod and have heim joints threaded on the ends for lateral movement to raise and lower the drive.

That is unless you guys convince me that the Panther Electro Steer is the way to go. I don't mind spending the extra money, as long as it is a good and effective system. I just don't want to end up with something that I don't like. I am attaching a couple of pictures of the back of my boat, so you can see what Im up against.

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Panther Marine used to make an extended mount for on the main motor for situations similar to yours. Question is do they still make them and 2nd question would it be long enough if if they do. The part I am referring to would be the connector that goes on the main Outboard the connecting rod attaches to. The connection points used to be made from readily available fittings.

Check out the #12 post in this thread. It may be what you are looking for.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...-kicker.html#b

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Originally Posted by Jiga-Byte

Gradyfish - I aw this when searching the internet for solutions. The only question I have, is if it will work with twins? It looks like it's meant to run through the existing linkage of the main motor.

Do you have this system? Love to hear more about it.

Matt

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Matt,
I am currently running the Panther tie bar on my boat but, I have been researching different options. When I came across the Seastar system on the web it looked like it would not work with my configuration, so I contacted them. They replied to me very quickly and gave me the information needed to work with my boat. It appears they have more options available than the website shows. It's probably worth contacting them.

G/fish

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Originally Posted by WI Walleye

Personally I would just upgrade your main power to four strokes and be done with it. Your going to spend 5k on adding a kicker and if you look online you get get a set of very nice used motors for 10-12k. Then you can sell your existing motors and get some cost back too.

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WI Walleye - that is something that in hind sight may have been a better route. Unfortunately, I've already purchased a kicker. I will say that I got an outstanding deal on it though. Its a 2006 Merc Pro Kicker series that was hardly ever used. The thing is clean as a whistle and basically brand new. It power tilt/trim, electric start, came with the remote and all the wiring. I only give $1500 for it.

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Originally Posted by wakina

I use the T4 unit and like it very well. I have never had a situation that I have felt the least bit out of control. Now with that being said there is a slower reaction time involved when steering but nothing that I feel the need to improve on, just take the time to learn its oddities. Learning to avoid places and situations that puts more demand on your equipment than can be reasonably expected out of it is just good practice. So far my T4 has been bullet proof. The T5 is more compact in design and made to fit into a more confined spot where there is not enough room for the longer T4.

I would ask them why they feel the T5 is better suited for you instead of the tie rod. But from what you have stated so far I think maybe the distance from the main out board to the kicker might be to close for the tie rod to work properly, I base that on the fact you have twins and they are mounted off center on each side of the center line leaving a much shorter distance for the steering rod to function. But that is only my opinion based upon a semi-educated guess.

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Wakina - Does your T4 have quick connects? I seen on another blog where someone said the T5 does have quick connects. If that is the case, then I could still add a tie rod also having quick connects to the main motors. This would give me the option to use eather system, depending on the situation. If I were in heavy boat traffic or rougher waters, theoretically I could switch to the tie rod and steer with the wheel.

Does this seem possible and practical to you?

Thanks in advance.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jiga-Byte

Wakina - Does your T4 have quick connects? I seen on another blog where someone said the T5 does have quick connects. If that is the case, then I could still add a tie rod also having quick connects to the main motors. This would give me the option to use eather system, depending on the situation. If I were in heavy boat traffic or rougher waters, theoretically I could switch to the tie rod and steer with the wheel.

Does this seem possible and practical to you?

Thanks in advance.

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Yes it may be possible without very much problem! Here are the connecting ends that you will need to make the connections minus the connecting bar. That has to be cut and fitted at the job site. You will probably need 2 different connecting spots on your kicker if you use the T5 steering unit, the angle from the kicker to the main engine would be 2 great to use the same connection post for both cause the kicker will be mounted back from the main engine. You should be able to go from front to front on both engines to get your desired results. You may want to just try the tie bar first without the cost of the T5. That may be all that you would need.

http://www.iboats.com/Kicker-Motor-S...iew_id.163196\

I'm not an expert on this steering setup but I don't believe the screw type steering box would hold up to the constant correction to stay on a course that the side mount of the kicker would require. I have had very good success with the hydraulic system from Goetz Engineering. It will also let you get away from the helm. Check it out Goetz Hydraulic Steering